Fez
Fez's medina is the world's largest car-free urban area, and stepping into it feels like time travel. Donkeys carry goods through lanes so narrow you can touch both walls, the tanneries fill the air with an unforgettable (pungent) smell, and artisans still practice crafts — zellige tilework, leather working, brass — the same way they have for centuries. It's more authentically Moroccan than Marrakech and less touristy, but just as intense.
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Fez travel FAQ
How many days do I need in Fez?
2 to 3 days. Day one: hire a guide for the medina (essential for a first visit, 300-500 MAD/$30-50 for a half day), visit the Chouara Tanneries (best from a terrace above — the leather shops provide mint to hold under your nose), Bou Inania Madrasa (20 MAD/$2), and the Kairaouine Mosque exterior (non-Muslims can't enter). Day two: Mellah (Jewish quarter), the Royal Palace gates, the Merinid Tombs for panoramic views, and Fez el-Jdid. Day three: a day trip to Meknes and the Roman ruins of Volubilis (1 hour, 70 MAD/$7 entry).
Do I need a guide in the Fez medina?
Strongly recommended for your first day — the medina has 9,000+ lanes and GPS doesn't work well. An official guide costs 300-500 MAD ($30-50) for a half day and will show you the key sights, explain the history, and help you avoid scams. After a day with a guide, you'll have enough bearings to explore independently. Without a guide, you will get lost — but that's also part of the experience. Just keep walking and you'll eventually reach a gate or a landmark. Download offline maps of the medina before you go.
What should I eat in Fez?
Fez is Morocco's culinary capital. Try pastilla (sweet-savory pigeon or chicken pie with phyllo dough and almonds, 30-60 MAD/$3-6) — it originated here. Harira soup (thick lentil and tomato, 10-15 MAD/$1-1.50) is perfect for cold evenings. Tanjia is Marrakech's thing, but Fez does mechoui (slow-roasted lamb) superbly. Café Clock serves the famous camel burger (80 MAD/$8). For a traditional feast, riads like Riad Fès serve multi-course dinners in stunning settings (200-400 MAD/$20-40). Fresh-squeezed orange juice at any stall costs 5-10 MAD ($0.50-1).