Kathmandu
Kathmandu hits all your senses at once — incense smoke, honking motorcycles, prayer flags fluttering over ancient stupas, and the Himalayas hovering on the horizon. The Durbar Squares are still recovering from the 2015 earthquake, but the rebuilding is part of the city's story. It's chaotic, dusty, and utterly fascinating — a place where Hindu temples and Buddhist monasteries stand side by side, and the trekking trailheads of the Himalayas are just a short flight away.
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Kathmandu travel FAQ
How many days do I need in Kathmandu?
2 to 3 days before or after trekking. Day one: Kathmandu Durbar Square, Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple — climb the 365 steps for valley views), and Thamel for gear shops and dinner. Day two: Boudhanath Stupa (the largest in Nepal, stunning at sunset when monks do the kora walk), Pashupatinath Temple (Hindu cremation site on the river), and Patan Durbar Square. Day three: Bhaktapur day trip (the best-preserved medieval city, $15 entry, 45 min by bus).
How cheap is Kathmandu?
One of the cheapest capital cities you'll visit. A dal bhat (rice and lentil meal) costs 250-400 NPR ($1.80-3), a beer 350-600 NPR ($2.60-4.50), and momos (Tibetan dumplings) 150-300 NPR ($1-2.25). Guesthouses in Thamel start at 800-1,500 NPR ($6-11)/night, mid-range hotels 3,000-8,000 NPR ($22-60). A taxi across the city is 300-600 NPR ($2.25-4.50). Trekking permits for the Annapurna region are about $30. The Everest Base Camp trek all-in costs $1,000-2,500 depending on style.
Is Kathmandu a good base for trekking?
It's the main hub. Most treks start from Kathmandu or nearby Pokhara. For Everest Base Camp: fly to Lukla from Kathmandu (35 min, $175-200 each way — one of the world's most dramatic flights). For Annapurna treks: bus or fly to Pokhara first (25 min flight or 6-7 hour bus). Thamel is packed with trekking gear shops — you can buy or rent everything you need for $5-30 per item. Hire a guide ($25-35/day) and porter ($15-20/day) locally for the best rates. October-November is peak trekking season.